I meant to post something in the brief few days between my parents' departure and my leaving on holiday, but I ran out of time. Yes, you read that correctly, I was on holiday. Again. Now, lest you start rolling your eyes and muttering under your breath about how often I seem to disappear off on these little jollies, let me remind you that my allotted vacation days add up to something like seven weeks in total, and to use all that up every year is hard work. Takes a dedicated, methodical approach.
We decided that it was our civic duty (not to mention environmentally sounder) to opt to spend at least one holiday in Scotland. Support the home team and all that. We've done this in the past, and- at the risk of sounding negative- invariably regretted it somewhat. Let's be frank- taking a trip in this country tends to mean indifferent food, rip-off prices, poor service and crap weather.
And I regret to report that this time was no exception; all of those elements were present.
I suppose, given the spectacular countryside much of the aforementioned craptitude could be overlooked, had the weather not been so appalling. We left home in relatively balmy temperatures. Then, as we drove further north, (our destination being island off the west coast rhyming with, er, "rye"), the clouds rolled in. The sky turned dark. The thermometer plummeted to 55 degrees.
To our teeth-gritting annoyance, whenever we turned on the radio or the TV, the announcers were gibbering on endlessly about the heatwave in London. Temperatures in the high 80s! Pensioners collapsing from heat exhaustion! Photos of carefree families frolicking happily on the sun dazzled beaches!
Meanwhile, we reached, er, the place that rhymes with "lye", and found ourselves in a slightly damp rented cottage. Cue endless hot baths to try to stay warm, as a roaring wind blew the rain at 90 degree angles across the front of the house. There was a fine view of the sea from the living room window- or at least there would have been, had the hills not been completely shrouded in low hanging mist.
"But it's Julllllly," I moaned to E. as I scrabbled in my suitcase for a wooly hat and long underwear. (I packed on prior knowledge of what to expect). "We should be strolling hand in hand down some sunny promenade, sipping cooling fizzy drinks in a sidewalk cafe, basking like sandsharks in the warm waters."
E., who had optimistically packed the bikes, his fishing rod and his hiking boots, stared grimly out the window.
"We've gone on holiday by mistake," he muttered a la Withnail & I.
We stayed in and watched England get knocked out of the World Cup; later that evening, as a change of scene for the Brazil game, we decided to make our way down to the local pub. It was set back from the road in a pleasing little dell surrounded by trees, lights glimmering appealingly in the rain-sloshed gloom. But as soon as we walked in, we realised our mistake. The place was filled entirely with sullen English people, and the atmosphere varied between mildly unwelcoming to slightly hostile, overladen with a veneer of funeral gloom. Oops.
Unfortunately, this was to be a recurring theme throughout the rest of our stay on the island. For example, we tried to book a table for our anniversary dinner at a nice-ish recommended restaurant. "If you can find a table, you can order," grunted the owner, waving his hand dismissively in the direction of the bar, slapping the change for our drinks into E.'s hand in an unfriendly fashion.
I tried to order the fish special- nope, off the menu. Turns out this was to be the first of many things unavailable at various venues throughout the week. No giant chocolate chip cookies as advertised. No, there's no ice cream for a milkshake. No, sorry, we're out of the Moroccan lamb stew. No, the library is closed all day on Tuesdays, you can't book a computer to check your email. No, actually, we haven't had internet access available for two years- we really must get around to updating that leaflet sometime. No, we don't have the recommended walking guide book in stock, maybe check in the town 25 miles down the road- they might have it. Or not.
Complaints aside, the island did nevertheless work its slow magic on us over the next few days. It stopped raining, and the sun came out. We played a round of comedy golf on a funny little course. We walked to a white beach, waters as clear as the Mediterrean. E. caught dozens of mackerel skimming just off the surface in silvery schools. We looked through the binoculars at seals frolicking offshore. We hiked up an eery hill, the cloud suddenly rolling in over the sea, whispering the names of the strange stone formations; the Needle, the Prison, the Table. We walked an isolated peninsula, through the crumbled remains of a village lost to the Clearances, inexplicable patches of daffodils growing around the old stone walls.
Then the weather turned crap again and we came home.
So, now you know where I have been. I should perhaps mention, one slightly odd thing happened. You see, we spent a lot of time in the car, both driving for hours to get to the island and then once there driving around to the various parts (which are otherwise quite inaccessible, not being terriblly well served by public transport). And for the first time ever in the whole of the history of my relationship with E., I got a strange sensation that something, or more specifically, someone was missing. The backseat looked so empty. I found myself imagining, repeatedly, a little person in the back- a baby, a child.
I say it's odd, because in the whole of the saga of trying to have a family, I've never ever really pictured it so vividly before. Never really pictured it all, actually. And now that I have done so, I'm suddenly finding it hard to stop.
Consider me worried and intrigued in equal measures.